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Exploring Gjirokastër: Albania's Ottoman Stone City

There are cities that welcome you with wide boulevards and neon signs, and then there are cities that pull you back in time the moment you set foot on their cobblestones. Gjirokastër is firmly in the second category. Draped across the slopes of the Gjerë mountains in southern Albania, this extraordinary UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the best-preserved Ottoman towns in the entire Balkans, yet it remains refreshingly off the beaten path compared to better-known destinations in the region. W